If you actually want 200-240bhp at the crank, you're instantly into the realms of either FI'ing the 1ZZ (which can work well) or engine swaps. ZZW30 MR-S (or MR2 Roadsters) are great cars, but I wouldn't start with one to build a dedicated track car given your stated requirements.ġ) They're down on power. There appears to be some confusion in your post. Refine your plans before picking a route. It can be done for cheaper if you're willing to hunt for used parts and such, but the Honda crowd can be quite annoying to deal with. I spent about 7k taking my running 1zz out and putting in a K20A2 with MFactory LSD, baffled oil pan, etc (done right) that's doing the labor myself as well. I would recommend getting a roller and building it up. I have 15X8 and get 225/45r15 that are a little more expensive but not too bad and have a bit more grip. On the Spyder, you can use 15X7 wheels and get 205/50r15 tires that are dirt cheap. Similar cars have 215whp with the same engine and different bolt ons). It should be about 20whp more, but I used the PRB manifold because it came with my engine and it fits, a fairly quiet/restrictive exhaust because it's my daily driver, and I might have other issues. Mine weighs 2100lbs and I'm making 195whp and it's pretty quick. If you want cheap fun or really want that rear bias, the Spyder is the car for you. Now to the part that I have to be honest with myself.if you want speed per dollar, an S2000 is a much better alternative and with a mid-front engine, weight distribution isn't drastically different (even though it's the other way). Also, I am using just the Honda ECU and everything but the coolant gauge works I installed a more accurate aftermarket one anyway. Even a built 2ZZ can barely get above 210whp and I love the K20's increased torque compared to the 2ZZ (even just the K20, not K24). With the drastic difference in aftermarket support, if you get bored of ~210whp and want to build the motor, you can get up to 250whp pretty easily and 300whp if you really have some money. I don't regret going K20 over 2ZZ it was a little more work, but any engine swap can be difficult. Here's my youtube channel so you can see it in action. I basically just wrote down whatever was coming to my mind, sorry that the post is not very coherent. Any truth to that? What would it cost to drop a 2zz in? Someone told me that 2zz's are getting old and not very reliable for lots of tracking. Should I go get a clean one and then do all the mods myself? Wait for semi built track car to appear on Craigslist and take over from there? Go with a blown one as a rolling chassis and build it up from the ground? These are all decisions depending on how much money I am willing to spend, but I do not really know the costs.ġzz turbo, same questions, does anyone have one, how is the power delivery? What are your thoughts? I feel like I would love a roll caged, hardtop, 14inch wheeled K20 swapped MR2. There are some options as far as powerplant such as a tubo charged 1zz, NA 2zz or K20. So far I have gathered that I should look for a 2003+ car to prevent some issues. I would like anywhere between 200-250 hp at the crank.Ĭombining all of these it looks like MR2-S is the car for me. I want it to be cheap, small tires where I can burn as much track rubber as I want, as light as possible with fast direct steering. If it was an amazing deal, I would consider an FR. I like MR cars although currently driving an RR. Moral of the story I need a dedicated track car. Brakes are gonna be about $1k if I go the pugid route. I am almost done with my P-Zero's and replacing them with Cup2 tires is gonna cost me about $2k. I currently own a '13 911C2S and enjoy taking it to the track however it is becoming a very costly hobby.
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